Monday, April 22, 2013

Transformations


Sarah: born 1830, died 1855
I sit outside on a lovely stone patio in the Shenandoah Valley sipping a glass of nearly-black ruby wine near the gravestone of a young woman named Sarah Girtrude Lynn, the long ago owner of this expansive property who was buried here in 1855.  I sit amid one of the most beautiful vineyards in Virginia on the most idyllic of days in April, just myself and lovely Sarah – or so I feel – sipping the special Locksley Reserve Norton wine, made from the native Norton grape which this vineyard, Chrysalis, has made its mission to reclaim and rehabilitate as Virginia’s own state wine.  Of 70 acres of vines at Chrysalis, 40 are dedicated to the Norton grape.

The Norton grape has a long history, at least long in the sense of winemaking in America.  Of the 25 or so grape varieties native to North America, only the Norton has been able to produce a good dry table wine (there are plenty of sweet table wines in America).  And the original Norton vine was actually propagated by a Dr. Daniel Norton in Richmond, VA around 1830 (he'd been working on it for at least 10 years) from the seed of a grape that is genetically related.  Norton thrives in America when given a chance, in all soils and climes, and has been disease resistant ever since.

The native Norton grape
However, for whatever reasons or mishaps or misunderstandings, the grape was doubted, unappreciated, and outwardly rejected for many years – in spite of having been deemed “The Best Wine of All Nations” at the Vienna World’s Fair in 1873.  The rejection of this grape and the preference for European varietals is detailed in the book, The Wild Vine, subtitled "A Forgotten Grape and the Untold Story of American Wine."  Having read the book and sipped the wine and been made a convert, I am on pilgrimage to see the wild vine with so much history and to sit in the place where its resurrection is all around me.

Winemakers, I’ve discovered in my forays to only some of the 220 wineries in Virginia, either discount the Norton grape, or are passionate about it.  It is like a gem to some, buried and lost and found again. The Norton grape is called earthy, musty, deep, and confusing.  It is the kind of grape that is deceiving in its forwardness early on – and easy to reject because it is so loud and hard to understand – but, given time, it becomes rich and profound and moderated and textured.  It is like the prodigal son who goes wayward only to return decades later a changed man.  It is a confusing wine, but given time (6 to 8 years in the bottle, even more, they say), it is transformed.   

Grapevines in early spring
I cannot help but contemplate the short life of Sarah as I sip my wine made on this land once belonging to her.  Born in the same year that Dr. Norton’s grape was named after him, she was orphaned at age 15.  She was to inherit the beauty and richness of this spot in the Shenandoah Valley, but not the wealth of longevity to enjoy it.  She died at age 25 from consumption.  The land was divided among distant relatives in the decade prior to the Civil War, and eventually lost to all family members in subsequent years.  Sarah could not have known that her simple grave marker would be found while the land was being cleared and excavated to make the patio for a vineyard in the distant year of 2000 – (I learned all of this about Sarah while my host in the tasting room poured sample after sample of very good wines) – she could not have known that there’d be a shrine set up for her in the most trafficked spot on one of the most trafficked vineyard in the state – could not have known on her deathbed at age 25 that people 150 years hence would toast her young, unfinished spirit.    

 Toast . . . 
I simply sit here – and that is what wine is for, I think – to be in the present state – all pieces in one place – Sarah’s land, Dr. Norton’s grape, a winemaker’s vision, the shadows of the toasts of many that have come before – transformation complete.

Tuesday, April 2, 2013

Heirloomed


There is a big, flat box which I brought back from beneath my mother’s bed when she died four years ago; and since that time, the box has been under my bed, in my attic, on the top shelf in my closet, on the floor in my closet, in plain view, on various chairs, on my desk, near my desk, and beneath my desk where my feet could not rest until they acknowledged what was there.  That box contains the disorganized photos of an extended family life that started even a generation or two before I was born.

The Family Memory Box
My intention has always been to scan each and every photo, to create some semblance of order by generation or by topic or by person or by chronology – I didn’t know which – and to organize them into neat digital albums.  I could then duplicate these albums with the touch of a button or two, and distribute them to anyone interested – giving sense and semblance of what had transpired in one zig-zaggy family line from Germany to America.  The originals would also be put into albums to be handed down to . . . the most interested descendent.

Four years have passed, and I have scanned as many photos (four), though they had nothing in common with each other – I just liked the photos.  They were wily subjects or people that resisted categorization – they were better off standing alone – and so they became just four photos scanned.    

Grandma Golem
There’s a picture of my grandmother at Cherokee, NC standing next to an Indian dressed garishly with cheap feathers, beads and headgear.   It was 1967 and I was a 10-year-old child standing right about where the cameraman is taking the photo.  I remember him telling my grandma to smile.  My grandma was a fiercely independent and strong willed woman who always questioned the roles handed out to women long before it was commonplace to do so.  My mother said she was very intelligent, but had to quit school at age 8 to work in a sewing factory after her father died in a drowning accident, leaving a wife and four young daughters.  She lived alone for many decades after her children were grown and her husband left her, until she broke her hip while taking her daily walk through a Buffalo snowstorm.   She was forced to sell her house and move in with our family just outside of Buffalo until five years later when we moved to North Carolina.  My mother said it was someone else’s turn to take her, and that’s when it was decided Grandma would go to California to live with her daughter (who swiftly put her in a nursing home).  Grandma always said she was being “shipped off to die.”  This day in Cherokee with the Indian Chief was one of the last days I spent with her.  She died a few years later.

It’s a disorganized set of tales in that box – each picture needs a narrator to sit by it as it is delivered up for view, a storyteller of a thousand words to point and give direction and disclose the real story behind the picture. 

I couldn’t do it, couldn’t make a digital, librarian-like order out of the chaos of a multi-generational family life.  Each time I bumped into the box or moved it to a more (or less) prominent spot in the house, I thought of all the years in which my mother planned or intended to do exactly what I have hoped to do these last four years – make order out of it.  “Maybe when you go off to college, I’ll get around to organizing those pictures,” I heard her say.  Or, “When I get caught up with the mending, I’ll get to those pictures.”  It ended up under her bed where she could sleep on it – until it was no longer her problem.

Maybe boxes of family pictures aren’t supposed to be organized.  Most of the events and people in those boxes were never ‘according to plan’ to begin with.  Families can’t be alive in a photo album, digital or tactile, any more than a textbook can tell their stories.  They’re messy and don’t categorize well.  Some events and people just have to stand alone – and oftentimes the background is a bigger picture than the foreground

So when my eldest child on Easter afternoon asked to see the box of pictures from Grandma’s house, I presented the box ‘as is’  (from the top shelf in my closet).   She poured them out onto the floor as I had always done when I was that age – began by digging in, randomly selecting one, staring into it, asking questions – or not.  An hour or two later, when the background of a few chosen photos had been brought into focus and a few things had been made clearer, the piles were unceremoniously stuffed back into the box – for another day, another year.      
  
I wonder if my mother ever noticed what I noticed today as I lifted the sturdy box (which originally contained a “Queen Elizabeth bedspread”) to the top shelf of my closet – in fancy script, the words, Loomed to be heirloomed